So because I'm reflecting back on my last year these adventures are going to be a bit out of order. I went to Morocco with one of my closest friends in the program, Haylee. We decided we needed a few more adventures before our program time was up. So beginning of May 2013 we went! Get ready for a trip of culture shock, harassment, getting to know a friend REAL well, and sticking out in a crowd for being white and female.
I had talked to other people in the program about their visits to Morocco (even got some great suggestions on where to stay) but I don't think anything could have prepared me for my trip there. Even more so than when I first arrived in Italy, Morocco was the most epic culture shock of my life.
After a pretty long flight there (or at least the longest I could remember taking in my little weekend adventures) we were starving. We took the taxi service to meet one of the guys who worked at our hostel, and he proceeded to walk us to the hostel. As soon as we got there we were greeted with couches and hot tea. I guess they were working on getting us all checked in but we pretty much sat there confused wondering when we could leave to go get something to eat. Once we got all settled in the hostel owner was great and let us know where we could go and what he suggested in the main square (Jemaa el fnaa).
Just walking down the little streets was an adventure. Tons of Moroccan men yelling at you to get your attention with a wide variety of compliments, greetings, insults, etc. And it never ends. I spent most of my time attempting to never make any direct eye contact (not to mention trying to keep my body covered as much as possible in ridiculous heat. The square at night was exciting. So lively, tons of sellers selling EVERYTHING: food stands, orange juice stands (so AMAZING), incense, old ladies doing henna, rows and rows of little shops selling clothing, toys, jewelry, bags, silver and gold trinkets, and so much more.
We stopped where rows and rows of tables with open grills sat in the middle of the square and feasted like kings... for next to nothing. The most beautiful part of visiting... the American dollar goes a long way in Morocco ;) We had great soup, delicious coke, and great kebabs. SO GOOD! We spent the rest of our time walking around and then went back to the hostel to go to the roof and hookah.
The next day we made some friends England and Canada who came out to adventure around with us! Visited a couple local palaces (Bahia and El Badi). It was so hot that day but the palaces were incredibly beautiful. I loved the detail and the mosaic work, just so different from what I've seen in other countries I have visited. It was just an obvious departure from historic European decor and architecture.
So HERE is my horror story, or at least one of a few experiences that would cause my trip to Morocco to be one of the most memorable. We had been warned that there are boys and men who will attempt to help you if you seem lost or anything and then they would demand you give them money at the end of it. First we get help from some guy who insists he wants nothing he just wanted to help us out and show us some cool stuff. So we go along and he takes us to some little street with some really unique herbs and such to sell to help with skin care, sinuses, etc. It was a great demonstration and it seemed pretty a pretty great price, until we realized that the measurements given to us were significantly higher and we spent way too much or what we bought. Something to remember when traveling to countries with a different kind of currency: PAY ATTENTION TO THE RATE! and Don't be afraid to refuse if they try to take advantage. Something we learned the hard way :/ Then there were the little group of boys probably age 5 to 10 who decided to follow us around. As we are walking one of these little bastards comes up and pinches me on the butt! I was so furious! So I yelled at them and they ran off. But I was so mad. Well then here they come again, laughing and following behind us. I turn around and again yell at them to go away and we continue to walk and for the 2nd time another attempts to grab me, only this time he went far under and definitely did not just grab my butt. I blew up at this point and had to chase him down. No joke.... I wanted to punch him in the face. But for those considering visiting you should know as a female, there is a lot of following and stalking and you can't be nice about it. They take it as an invitation.
For our last day in Marrakesh we decided to get a massage and try the hammam. From what I understood a hammam was just a ritual bathing and we found such a great deal for it all why not take advantage? Well.... this would change mine and Haylee's relationship forever haha. She had never had a massage before and me, thinking I'm the massage pro, was trying to let her know what is involved. Yeah.... being American I was NEVER prepared for a massage here. We changed into robes and then were put into separate rooms to be massaged. My masseuse walked in and asked me for my robe. No "I'll go outside while you get under the sheets". Nope... just get totally naked right there. So I did and laid down as she proceeds to cover only my vagina with a hand towel (it was not big enough to cover my breasts as well). I'm a pretty confident person in general but this was even a surprise for me and forced me to get extra comfortable with my body REAL fast. The massage was great actually just really personal, especially when she proceeded to massage my breasts and while massaging my thighs, lets just say those fingers reached a LITTLE too far. Are you going to take me out on a date now? Are we now in a relationship? Because this was pretty personal.
Now for the hamman. Nothing could have prepared me for that bathing experience. We were placed in the same room, and again our robes taken from us and now I'm completely naked with my friend. Um... OK we just got SUPER close. We go on each side of the room and a woman comes in and begins to bathe us however, I am pretty certain this is what water boarding is. I felt like I was drowning as she threw bucket after bucket of water over me in this extremely humid room. As I lay down on this stone slab and am scrubbed raw with exfoliants and again drowned and choking for air. After it all I won't lie, my skin felt amazing. My psyche however was about ready to jump off a cliff and end it all.
The rest of the day we spent shopping, eating delicious food and hanging out with the numerous friends we had made through our hostel, friends from England, Scotland, Canada, and Mexico. It was a really fun experience most of all for the company we made.
The next day we boarded a train for Fez (which we almost missed because of the taxi driver who didn't seem to know where anything was in the city, then tried to charge us more for him getting lost.... oh hell no). A 7 hour train ride in the smoldering heat on leather seats, in a cramped train where we were definitely the only white people on board. Once there we found a taxi to take us again to our hostel. This hostel was very quiet and took a couple little passage ways to find, but run by a very unique character named Ben. We went out to get some food, treated almost like we were celebrities as guys working there proceeded to try and take pictures of us while we sat there, and then hung out at the hostel for awhile listening to music (a LOT of rap because apparently our hostel hosts are all about the Thug Life) and reading. The next day we made friends with an adorable Bosnian from London and decided to walk around and explore the market together. It was such a dramatic change of pace from Marrakesh. While people like to stare a lot, there wasn't constant men yelling things like "nice tits" or "you're beautiful" or "hey honey". I know some of these might sound nice but it is done in the most creepy way possible. The Market was awesome, including more beautiful mosaic churches to visit. Then we had a quick meal with an amazing view of Fez, packed our bags, and took off to the airport. Let's just say the constant flattery and attention didn't end until we actually landed in Pisa (since there were creepy guys staring at Haylee on the plane back as well).
So yes.... the trip that would change everything. As Haylee and I said "Morocco changed us"
Ciao for now!
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